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August 11, 2024 6 min read
BY CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: GEMMA LOUISE DEEKS
We flew to Naples from Heathrow, rented a Fiat 500 at the airport and then stayed at a boutique hotel in the centre of the city for the night, to rest before we began our Amalfi Coast journey the next day. The hotel, Artemisia Domus Giardino, was a charming period residence that felt tranquil amongst the madness of Naples city centre.
If you’re looking for a spot to eattraditional Neapolitan cuisine, La Lazzara Trattoria e Pizzeria came highly recommended and did not disappoint. Although not situated in the most picturesque of streets, the pizza really was exceptional and worth the 20 minute walk from the hotel. Be sure to book a table as you don’t want to miss out on this.
We drove from Naples to Pompeii – the archeological ruins destroyed by the nearby Mount Vesuvius. It’s a must visit for history buffs, but get there early in the morning as there’s no shaded areas to cool down in under the baking sun!
We continued our journey to Sorrento, checking into Maison La Minervetta, a seriously stylish hotel clinging to the cliffs of Sorrento with amazing views of the Marina Grande. The decor here is really something to marvel over, everything is impeccably curated but it feels like a home away from home and the staff are so warm and helpful.
Head down for lunch in the bay overlooking the water at one of the many seafood restaurants, with private access directly from the hotel. Just be prepared to climb 200 steps back up!
Sorrento is such a pretty town, so make sure you save some time to wander the streets and visit the charming boutiques before returning to the hotel and spending the afternoon relaxing by the pool. The hotel also offers complimentary appetisers with your sunset cocktails in the evening, a lovely way to start the evening.
QUI Sorrento was a restaurant the hotel recommended for us that would cater to my plant-based diet. Italy is not very vegan friendly at all, and this meal didn’t disappoint. The food was so creative and each dish presented unexpected flavours you wanted to savour.
We found an overnight car park with valet service for the car whilst we went to Capri for a few days. We took the midday ferry over to the island, a short 20 minutes, before checking into Jumeirah Capri Palace in Anacapri. The hotel is a mix of Italian elegance and contemporary art and has a Michelin star restaurant, a highly specialised medical spa and an inviting outdoor pool. We took the hotel’s shutter service to its exclusive beach club restaurantIl Riccio, which has cliff-side dining on an iconic blue terrace. It has an amazing vibe and the food is great, but make sure you book a table even as a hotel guest, as this is a place in demand. They also have a collaboration with Dior next door, with sun loungers and parasols decorated in a pink pastel hue and the fashion houses iconic monogram. It’s a must for photo opportunities.
Dinner that night was at Da Gelsomina, a family run restaurant known for its warm hospitality and home cooked food. The countryside hideaway has sweeping vista views and you’ll really see the authentic side of the island here.
The hotel is located right in the midst of Anacapri town, and next to the Monte Solaro chair lift which is such a fun experience. Take a relaxing trip in the chair lift up to the top of the island and back down again, marvelling at the breath-taking views of the island. It only takes 13 minutes to go up and the same back down.
If you’ve had enough of Italian food and want to dine somewhere different, we found a great spot in Capri town hidden down one of the small back streets calledUrubamba that serves Nikkei cuisine. The intimate garden atmosphere has such a cool vibe and the food was an exotic twist for Capri, from Peruvian to Japanese flavours.
Next up was Positano. We took the ferry back to Sorrento, collected our car and then did the short drive to the next town, where we checked into Il San Pietro Positano. This is such a charming and special luxury hotel with unbelievable views, impeccable service and unbeatable romance. We had lunch at the hotel’s private beach club restaurant Carlino, which you access via a hidden lift carved in the rock. The menu focuses on fresh seafood and ingredients grown in the hotel’s kitchen garden. Relax by the sea on sun loungers post lunch or make your way back up to the pool area.
You must dine at the hotel’s Michelin star restaurant, Zass which is located on the terrace on the cliff edge overlooking the ocean. The food is very special and so is the impressive sommelier, who can propose a over 600 wines from the hotels cellar.
The hotel offers a 2 hour complimentary boat trip every morning for guests, which departs from the beach club and allows you to explore the stunning Amalfi coast line at your leisure.
I recommend reserving an afternoon to explore Positano town. The hotel offers a shuttle service so you wont have to hike down and up the winding roads, and the small, lazy beach town with old-world charm and narrow streets is full of shopping gems and cute cafes.
La Tagliata is a hidden gem highly recommend for dinner. Tucked up in the hills above Positano is a wonderful, family run, restaurant with some of the best views of the Amalfi coast and authentic Italian cuisine.
Our final leg of our Amalfi coast trip was Ravello, at the beautiful Palazzo Avino hotel, known as the pink palace. This was undoubtedly my favourite hotel and town we had visited, and wished we could have stayed longer!
We arrived around lunch time, and dined at the hotel’s Terrezza Belvedere restaurant, which is a casual dining spot with impeccable pink interior, no less, perched high above the property with amazing views. Fresh pasta, seafood and salad is served, and you can also join for Lobster and Martini’s from 6pm.
You’ll find it hard to leave the hotel, with its stunning grounds, relaxed atmosphere and pink decor. Relax by the pool area which overlooks the sea, take the hotel shuttle toPalazzo Avino’s Clubhouse by the Sea, located in the small town of Marmorata, just a 15 minute drive from Ravello.
Dinner is at Micheline-star restaurant Rossellini’s and you’ll want to book in just to marvel at the decor alone. The whole experience from start to finish is such a fun journey and the tasting menus are so imaginative– you really will have a memorable dining experience and the views from the panoramic terrace are unmatched.
Take a short (yet challenging) walk through Ravello town and up to Villa Cimbrone, a historic villa on the cliff edge with beautiful gardens, ancient cultures and an infinity terrace with breathtaking views. Stop at the picturesque outdoor cafe next to the rose garden for some iced tea before making your way back down, where you’ll want to stop at the various pottery shops. Ravello is arguably one of the most romantic towns in the Amalfi coast, and also the quietest, will less tourists and more charm.
We took a private sunset boat trip from the Amalfi marina, which is just a 20 minute taxi ride from Ravello. Experience the true meaning of la dolce vita this way and see all the beautiful pastel coloured villas whilst sipping on Prosecco, and seeing the coastal sites.
We had dinner in Amalfi’s main square afterwards, overlooking the Amalfi Cathedral which is famous for its mosaic exterior and grand steps. There’s plenty of pizzerias and restaurants in the square to choose from that directly face the beautiful monument.
We drove back to Naples from Ravello, and flew back home from here. This was the perfect trip for us before our twins are born in December. Full of relaxation, good food and ultimately, one of the the most beautiful coastal destination in Italy.