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I could happily spend every summer in Mallorca as for me a holiday is all about switching off, relaxing in the sun, reading and swimming. So returning to the same happy place where I don't feel obliged to do anything (no art galleries, churches, museums, long hikes thank you very much!) or go anywhere, has great appeal and means I properly relax.
I have spent my career as a magazine Fashion Director and Art Director travelling the world for photo shoots and I loved it, but the pull to travel long haul is no longer there. However this year we wanted something more than our usual beach holiday - somewhere we hadn't experienced before and the island of Lamu, along with Zanzibar, was a part of Africa I had really wanted to see.
When you ask about Lamu, people will always say it's a magical place and I quite agree! Situated in the Indian Ocean off the Northern Kenyan coast in East Africa, its rich culture is a combination of Islamic, Arabic, Indian and Chinese influences due to the trade winds that brought boats East to West. Lamu's reputation as a tourist destination was cemented with its creation as a UNESCO world heritage site in 2001 and today Lamu Town built in coral stone and mangrove timber is recognized as the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in all East Africa.
To reach Lamu we flew BA from LHR to Nairobi and spent a night at the wonderful Aeroclub of East Africa before flying on via SafariLink to Manda Island. From there we were met and whisked onto a dhow (the local fishing vessel style boats) that took us across the bay with views of Old Lamu Town and on to the jetty steps of Shela and a wonderful welcome from the Peponi Hotel. @peponi_hotel
Arriving in Lamu you are immediately struck by the slower pace and peacefulness. There are no cars or paved roads instead donkeys and pedestrians only wander through the winding, sandy alleyways. We loved the slower pace and absence of bright, overwhelming technology and relished the immersion in Swahili culture, food and goodwill.
Shela village where we stayed has a bohemian vibe and is full of gorgeous boutique shopping, art and the opportunity for yoga classes and wellness retreats.
Unique, Friendly, Unspoilt
Shela where we stayed is a small fishing village. The rhythm and lives of the island are led by the wind, moon and tides so activities are based on the time of year.
A must experience when visiting Lamu, is a sunset sail - it's magical watching the sun set while aboard a dhow, vessels that have sailed these waters for centuries. We sailed with @hippodhow and Captain Yusuf and his crew on his beautiful dhow. Leave the harbour at about 5pm for a 2 hour trip that includes sunset drinks and incredible traditional Swahili samosas and more delights cooked by his wife.
We also spent a day with Hippo Dhow sailing across the bay and through the Mangrove channels to Manda Bay where we swam on the deserted beach and had a barbecue lunch on board and fished. The Peponi cooked our catch for dinner - nothing was too much trouble for Asante Sana Hotel Peponi.
Also recommended is an early morning swim with Carol from the ocean Beach, sunset drinks across the bay at the Majilis bar and a Lamu adventure must see is a trip to Old Lamu town to see original Swahili homes and historic landmarks. Here, you'll find yourself giving way to donkeys and their loads down the bustling narrow streets!
The Peponi Hotel is unquestionably THE place to stay in Lamu. Everyone gathers on the bougainvillea shaded terrace run by the Korschen family and their incredible, thoughtful and kind team. Established in 1967 with just 4 rooms the hotel has grown and developed over the years and Carol and her daughter Kaila now look after their guests like friends and nothing is too much trouble. As a boutique hotel it now has 29 rooms and the rooms are comfortable and chic in an understated way using local materials and furniture. We loved our sea view terrace and sleeping under mosquito nets arranged each evening by the staff whilst you are at dinner.
Also recommend the Banana House Lamu @bananahouselamu a peaceful boutique hotel with a gorgeous tropical garden with a yoga hall where I went most mornings for morning yoga at (classes at 6am or 9am)
Nothing is quick in Lamu! It's about slowing down and watching the local scenery along the beach but I would recommend sitting in the beach front garden of the hotel Kijani @kijani_lamu a traditional Swahili style hotel with a gorgeous garden, for a coffee or afternoon tea or juice.
Our favourite spot was the raised beach terrace of the Peponi hotel under the trees, bliss!
Our favourite spot every evening was on the terrace of the Peponi Hotel with the sound of waves lapping against the beach walls. The food is absolutely delicious at the Peponi, every single thing but we were blown away by the Swahili Cuisine and highly recommend a dinner of just that.
Across the channels to Manda bay for lunch @mandabay_hotel a safari style beach retreat set on a deserted beach
Along the beach front at the jetty are the stalls of the Masai selling incredible African products, like baskets, beaded jewellery, belts and shops with carved wooden products by local artisans.
What I really loved were the beautiful boutique shops set up by wonderful taste makers and creatives who have settled in Lamu, creating beautiful products that fuse a European sensibility with local heritage and craftsmanship honouring the local materials and traditions.
Lulu Stories (recently opened in a new location in Shela village) was also a favourite - a beautiful edit celebrating local craftsmanship and materials, slow making and conscious living. I could have bought everything!
Do also visit Aman boutique in the heart of Shela village, owned by Sandy @sandylamu and its sister Aman home. Absolutely beautiful boutiques full of considered womenswear, hand loomed block print cotton dresses and incredible printed silk dresses inspired by African textiles all made on Lamu island.
Ikeno @ikeno_clothing owned by Sandy's daughter Jemima. Wonderful menswear collection of shirts and separates all made in Lamu Island from hand loomed fabrics and block print cottons.
Threads and needles - visit Mercy in her gem of a store and atelier where she sells ready to wear dresses and shirts handmade in local east African fabrics and you can also commission pieces in your choice of fabric. She made a beautiful dress for me whilst I was there, one I'll wear time and time again. She's is an incredible seamstress and not to be missed. @threadsandneedleslamu
Lastly, The Peponi hotel has its own wonderful boutique with a carefully edited collection of local products from clothing to baskets, jewellery and even homemade peanut butters and sauces and honey made locally on the island.
Like the rest of the Kenyan coast the weather has a tropical climate but on Lamu as you are on the beach there is always a breeze making it pleasant and the heat never oppressive.
Light clothing is recommended and a layer for the evening in case. I wore longer dresses or linen separates like my Second Summer co-ord from Tyde London in the evening with flats - sandals only no heels here!
A swimsuit with a locally bought Kanga (worn like a pareo) is perfect for the beach or poolside and I would recommend light breezy shirts to throw on too.
I brought my favourite large basket bag but ended up going home with 2 more ( I am a self confessed basket bag addict) so maybe don't take one as you will find fabulous baskets there!
I travelled in linen trousers, t-shirt and khaki safari jacket with an added layer of a cotton striped knit to wear on the air-conditioned plane plus cashmere wrap and travel mainstay.
SHOP THE TYDE COLLECTION FOR LAMU HERE
@emilyfitchm / www.emilyfitchmiller.com / https://linktr.ee/emilyfitchmiller
